Stockholm is a city built on water. Fourteen islands connected by fifty seven bridges, where Lake Malaren meets the Baltic Sea. The first time you emerge from Gamla Stan onto the waterfront and see the city stretching across the islands, pastel coloured buildings reflected in the still water, you understand why it is called the Venice of the North. Stockholm is one of the most beautiful capital cities in the world, combining a perfectly preserved medieval old town with world class museums, a cutting edge tech scene, and access to one of the most stunning archipelagos on the planet.

The Vasa Museum: A Seventeenth Century Time Capsule

The Vasa Museum is the single most impressive museum experience in Scandinavia. The Vasa was a Swedish warship that sank on its maiden voyage in 1628, less than a kilometre into its journey. It lay on the seabed for three hundred and thirty three years before being raised in 1961, almost completely intact. The ship is preserved in a purpose built museum that allows you to view it from multiple levels. The intricate carvings, the towering masts, the sheer scale of the vessel is breathtaking. The museum tells the story of the ship, the people who built it, and the tragic day it sank. Budget at least two hours for your visit. Entry costs approximately one hundred and seventy Swedish kronor, about seventeen euros. The museum is on the island of Djurgarden, easily reached by tram or ferry from the city centre.

Gamla Stan: The Old Town

Gamla Stan is one of the best preserved medieval old towns in Europe. The cobbled streets, the narrow alleyways, the colourful buildings that lean in toward each other. The Royal Palace, the official residence of the Swedish monarch, dominates the waterfront. The Nobel Museum, celebrating the Nobel Prize and its laureates, is housed in the former Stock Exchange building. The narrowest alley in Stockholm, Marten Trotzigs grand, is just ninety centimetres wide. Gamla Stan is busy during the day, especially in summer, but the atmosphere in the evening when the day trippers have left and the locals come out for dinner is magical. The restaurants on the main square are touristy and overpriced. Walk a few streets away from the square for better food at better prices.

The Archipelago: Thirty Thousand Islands

The Stockholm Archipelago stretches sixty kilometres east from the city into the Baltic Sea. It contains over thirty thousand islands, islets, and skerries. A boat trip through the archipelago is an essential Stockholm experience. You can take a guided tour, hop on a public ferry, or rent a kayak. The inner archipelago is densely populated with summer houses and small communities. The outer archipelago is wilder, with bare granite rocks and wind bent pines. The Vaxholm fortress, built in the sixteenth century to defend Stockholm from naval attack, is a popular day trip destination. The public ferries are the most affordable way to explore the archipelago and allow you to hop on and off at different islands.

Modern Stockholm: Sodermalm and Fotografiska

Sodermalm, the island south of Gamla Stan, is Stockholm’s most fashionable neighbourhood. The view from Monteliusvagen, a wooden walkway along the cliff edge, offers the classic panorama of Gamla Stan and City Hall across the water. Fotografiska, the photography museum, is one of the best in the world, with a constantly rotating programme of exhibitions. The museum restaurant serves excellent Swedish food with a view over the harbour. The neighbourhood is also home to some of Stockholm’s best vintage shops, independent cafes, and craft beer bars. Stockholm is expensive. A main course in a mid range restaurant costs between eighteen and twenty eight euros. A beer costs seven to nine euros. Budget accordingly, but do not let the prices put you off. This is a city that rewards every krona you spend.

Have you explored Stockholm’s islands, marvelled at the Vasa, or discovered the archipelago? What was your favourite moment in the Swedish capital?

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