The first glimpse of Dubrovnik’s Old Town from the top of Mount Srd is the kind of view that stops conversation. The terracotta roofs cluster within the perfect oval of the medieval walls. The Adriatic stretches away to the horizon, impossibly blue. The limestone streets below, polished to a mirror shine by centuries of footsteps, have seen Roman traders, Venetian merchants, Habsburg soldiers, and now millions of tourists drawn by the city that played King’s Landing in Game of Thrones. Dubrovnik is the most beautiful walled city in Europe, but its beauty comes with crowds. The secret to enjoying it is knowing when and where to go.
In This Article
The City Walls: The Essential Dubrovnik Experience
Walking the two kilometre circuit of the city walls is the single best thing to do in Dubrovnik. The walls, up to twenty five metres high in places, were built between the twelfth and seventeenth centuries and have never been breached by an attacking army. The walk takes about an hour and a half, less if you move quickly, more if you stop for photographs at every turn. The views from the walls are spectacular. On one side, the red tiled roofs of the Old Town and the bell towers of its churches. On the other side, the Adriatic Sea, clear and turquoise, with the island of Lokrum visible in the distance. The best time to walk the walls is first thing in the morning, when the gates open at eight, or late in the afternoon, when the cruise ship crowds have departed. The entry fee is approximately thirty five euros. The Dubrovnik Pass bundles the walls with other attractions and is worth buying if you plan to visit multiple museums. Go early and bring water. There is little shade on the walls and the summer sun is unforgiving.
Mount Srd and the Cable Car
The cable car to the top of Mount Srd rises four hundred and twelve metres above the Old Town in about four minutes. The view from the top is the iconic panorama of Dubrovnik, the walls, the harbour, the islands, all of it laid out below. The sunset from the summit is spectacular, with the light turning the stone of the Old Town from white to gold to pink. The cable car costs approximately fifteen euros each way. You can also walk up via the path that starts near the Old Town, a steep but rewarding forty five minute hike. At the top, the Homeland War Museum tells the story of the 1991 siege of Dubrovnik, a sobering counterpoint to the beauty of the view. The restaurant at the top serves adequate food at inflated prices. Bring your own snacks if you are on a budget.
Lokrum Island: Escape the Crowds
A ten minute ferry from the Old Harbour takes you to Lokrum Island, a nature reserve with peacocks, botanical gardens, a Benedictine monastery, and a salt lake for swimming. The island is the perfect escape from the Old Town crowds. The botanical garden, established in the nineteenth century, contains plants from around the world. The salt lake, known as the Dead Sea, is warm and buoyant and a favourite spot for swimming. The ferry runs regularly from April through October. The entry fee is about fifteen euros. Bring a picnic. The restaurants on the island are limited and expensive. Lokrum is also where the Qarth scenes from Game of Thrones were filmed, but the island’s real appeal is its natural beauty, not its television pedigree.
Buza Bar: Swimming from the Rocks
Built into the cliffs outside the city walls, Buza Bar is a Dubrovnik institution. There are two Buza bars, both accessible through small doors in the walls. Order a cold beer, find a spot on the rocks, and jump straight into the Adriatic. The water is deep, clear, and cold. The bar has no music, no frills, just drinks and a view that is worth the price of admission many times over. It is the perfect spot for a late afternoon swim before heading back into the Old Town for dinner. The sunsets from Buza Bar are legendary, with the sun dropping into the Adriatic behind the island of Lokrum.
Have you walked the walls of Dubrovnik, swum from Buza Bar, or watched the sunset from Mount Srd? What was your favourite moment in the Pearl of the Adriatic?
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