The first thing you notice in Bologna is the sound. The rattle of trolley wheels on cobblestones, the hiss of espresso machines, the chatter of students in the porticoes of the oldest university in the Western world. Then the smell hits you. Rendered pork fat, Parmigiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar reduction, the unmistakable aroma of Italy’s culinary heartland. Emilia Romagna stretches from the Apennine Mountains to the Adriatic coast, encompassing some of the most famous names in Italian food. Parma, Modena, Bologna, and the Riviera Romagnola. This is the warm heart of Italy.
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Bologna: La Grassa, La Dotta, La Rossa
Bologna has three nicknames. La Grassa, the fat one, for its food. La Dotta, the learned one, for its university founded in 1088. La Rossa, the red one, for the colour of its terracotta buildings and its political history. The city’s food reputation is justified. The Quadrilatero, a grid of narrow streets in the centre, is lined with food shops selling fresh pasta, cured meats, and cheeses. The Mercato delle Erbe and Mercato di Mezzo are the city’s two main food markets. Tagliatelle al ragù, tortellini in brodo, and lasagne alla bolognese are the classic dishes. A pasta making class is the best way to understand why Emilia Romagna’s food is so revered. The city’s porticoes, thirty eight kilometres of covered walkways, are a UNESCO World heritage site and provide shelter from both rain and sun as you explore the centre.
Parma and Modena: Cheese, Ham, and Vinegar
The triangle of Parma, Modena, and Reggio Emilia produces three of Italy’s most famous food products. Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, and Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena. A visit to a Parmigiano Reggiano dairy is a revelation. You will see the enormous copper vats, watch the cheese makers at work, and taste cheese at different stages of ageing. The difference between a twelve month old Parmigiano and a thirty six month old one is extraordinary. The Ferrari Museum in Maranello, just outside Modena, is the other great attraction of this area. The combination of the world’s most famous sports car and the world’s best food makes this region almost too rich in attractions.
Ravenna: Byzantine Mosaics
Ravenna is famous for its Byzantine mosaics, among the finest in the world. The basilica of San Vitale and the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia contain mosaics from the sixth century that have lost none of their colour or intensity. The blue and gold of the mosaics, depicting emperors, saints, and biblical scenes, cover every surface of the interiors. Ravenna is one of the less visited UNESCO cities in Italy, which means you can experience its wonders without the crowds that plague Florence or Venice. The city is also connected to the Adriatic via a canal, and the nearby beach town of Marina di Ravenna offers a seaside escape.
The Riviera Romagnola: Italian Beach Culture
The Riviera Romagnola is a one hundred and ten kilometre stretch of sandy Adriatic beaches that has been the summer playground of Italian families for generations. Rimini, Riccione, and Cervia are the main resorts. The beach culture here is organised and family friendly. You rent a sunbed and umbrella from a stabilimento, a beach establishment that provides changing rooms, showers, and a bar. The water is shallow and safe for children. The evening passeggiata, the traditional Italian evening stroll along the promenade, is a daily ritual. The seafood is excellent and the atmosphere is authentically Italian, with far fewer international tourists than the French Riviera or the Greek islands.
Have you eaten your way through Bologna, marvelled at the mosaics of Ravenna, or discovered the Riviera Romagnola? What is your favourite taste of Emilia Romagna?
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