Devon is the English county that has everything, two spectacular and entirely different coastlines (the wild, surf-battered north coast with its world-class breaks at Croyde and Saunton, and the gentler, fossil-rich Jurassic Coast of the south, a UNESCO World heritage site), the wild expanse of Dartmoor National Park, and a food scene built around the county’s legendary cream teas, fresh seafood, and farmhouse cider. From the cobbled streets of Totnes to the harbourside restaurants of Dartmouth, from the dramatic cliffs of Hartland to the family beaches of the English Riviera (Torquay, Paignton, and Brixham), Devon delivers the quintessential English holiday experience, refined over generations and still genuinely charming.

Quick Facts: Devon, England

• Best time to visit: May–September for the best weather; July–August for the full seaside experience (book accommodation months ahead, Devon fills up with British holidaymakers); October for the dramatic autumn colours on Dartmoor and the empty beaches
• Top activities: Hiking the South West Coast Path, some of the most spectacular coastal walking in Britain; surfing at Croyde Bay and Saunton Sands; exploring Dartmoor (the tors, the wild ponies, and the Bronze Age stone circles); fossil-hunting on the Jurassic Coast around Lyme Regis; a proper Devon cream tea (jam first, then clotted cream, the Cornish disagree, but in Devon this is the law); and a boat trip from Dartmouth along the Dart Estuary
• How to get there: Exeter is the main gateway, ~2.5 hours from London by train or car; the M5 motorway connects Devon to the Midlands and the North

Exploring the English Riviera

The English Riviera, encompassing the towns of Torquay, Paignton, and Brixham along Torbay, is Devon’s most popular seaside destination and offers a distinctly different experience from the wilder north coast. Torquay, the largest of the three towns, combines palm-lined promenades with a lively marina, excellent seafood restaurants, and a sophisticated Mediterranean atmosphere that earned it the Riviera name. The town was the home of crime writer Agatha Christie, and the Agatha Christie Mile, a self-guided walking tour, passes locations associated with her life and work, including the Grand Hotel where she stayed after her famous disappearance. Paignton is more family-oriented, with a sandy beach, a traditional pier with amusements, and Paignton Zoo, one of the best zoos in the UK with over 2,000 animals. Brixham remains a working fishing port, its colourful harbour filled with trawlers that supply the town’s fish market and restaurants. The Brixham heritage Museum tells the story of the town’s fishing industry, and the Breakwater Walk provides spectacular views across Tor Bay towards Berry Head.

Dartmoor: Ancient Landscapes and Wildlife

Dartmoor National Park, covering 368 square miles of Devon’s interior, is a landscape of profound beauty and mystery. The moor is characterised by its granite tors, weathered rock formations that rise dramatically from the open grassland and have inspired legends of giants, ghosts, and hidden treasure for centuries. The park is home to a rich variety of wildlife, including the iconic Dartmoor pony, which has roamed these moors for over a thousand years. Peregrine falcons nest on the granite cliffs, while rare birds such as the cuckoo and the skylark fill the air with their calls during spring and summer. Bronze Age settlements, stone circles, and burial chambers are scattered across the moor, testament to human habitation stretching back over 4,000 years. The clapper bridge at Postbridge, a medieval crossing made from massive granite slabs, is one of the best preserved examples in Britain. Visitors can explore the moor on guided walks led by national park rangers, which provide insights into the ecology, history, and folklore of this remarkable landscape. Wild swimming is popular in the moor’s rivers and pools, with the most famous spot being the rocky gorge at Fingle Bridge.

The Exeter Food and Drink Scene

Exeter, Devon’s historic county town, has developed a thriving food and drink scene that showcases the best of the region’s produce. The city’s covered market, dating from 1838, houses independent butchers, bakers, fishmongers, and cheese sellers who source their ingredients from local farms and fisheries. The surrounding countryside provides exceptional raw materials: Devon’s red soil produces excellent vegetables, the meadows support herds of cattle whose milk creates the famous clotted cream, and the coastal waters yield crab, lobster, and line-caught sea bass. Exeter’s restaurant scene ranges from Michelin-starred establishments to cosy gastropubs, with an emphasis on seasonal, locally sourced cooking. The city is also home to several craft breweries and cider makers who continue Devon’s long tradition of cider production. The Exeter Festival of Food and Drink, held each spring, brings together producers, chefs, and visitors for a celebration of the region’s culinary heritage. For a true taste of Devon, a cream tea in one of Exeter’s historic tearooms, featuring freshly baked scones, strawberry jam, and lashings of clotted cream, is an essential experience.