The Atlantic Ocean crashes against stepped pyramids of ancient stone as your boat bounces toward one of Ireland’s most extraordinary places.
In This Article
The Island That Time Forgot
Skellig Michael rises from the Atlantic Ocean like a prehistoric fortress, its jagged contours silhouetted against the ever-changing Irish sky. Located 12 kilometers off the coast of County Kerry, this UNESCO World heritage site is one of the most dramatically situated monastic settlements in existence. The island consists of two main peaks: the larger Skellig Michael itself and the smaller Little Skellig, which is home to one of the largest gannet colonies in the world. The approach by boat, through swells that can be formidable even on calm days, is an adventure in itself.
The island’s name derives from the Irish Sceilg Mhichil, meaning Michael’s rock, referring to the archangel. However, the island’s history predates Christianity. The dramatic rock formation was formed over 350 million years ago during the Devonian period, composed of Old Red Sandstone that was thrust upward by tectonic forces. The resulting landscape is a masterpiece of erosion: sheer cliffs, sea caves, and jagged pinnacles that create a silhouette unlike any other in Europe.
What makes Skellig Michael truly remarkable is the human story that unfolded on this inhospitable rock. Sometime between the 6th and 8th centuries, Christian monks chose this remote outpost as the site for a monastery. They built beehive-shaped stone huts, oratories, and terraced gardens on a saddle 180 meters above sea level, creating a self-sufficient community in one of the most isolated places on earth. The sheer audacity of building a monastery on this windswept pinnacle defies comprehension.
The Monastic Settlement: Faith Carved in Stone
Reaching the monastery requires climbing 618 stone steps that wind up the island’s steep face. These steps, built by the monks themselves, have been worn smooth by centuries of feet and weather. The climb is strenuous but not technically difficult, and the views at each turn provide welcome excuses to pause and catch your breath. The steps are narrow, uneven, and exposed in places, but the safety railings installed in recent years have made the ascent significantly less daunting.
The monastic compound itself is remarkably well preserved. Six clochans (beehive huts) stand in various states of completeness, their corbelled stone roofs having survived over a thousand years of Atlantic storms without mortar or cement. The construction technique, using overlapping stones that taper inward, creates structures that are both weatherproof and earthquake-resistant. Two small oratories, a church, a graveyard, and several cross-inscribed slabs complete the settlement.
The monks who lived here endured extraordinary conditions. Winter storms made the island inaccessible for months at a time. Fresh water was collected from rainfall. Food came from fishing, seabirds, and the small vegetable gardens that were painstakingly created by carrying soil up from the mainland. Yet archaeological evidence suggests the monastery was occupied continuously for nearly 600 years, until the community moved to the mainland around the 12th or 13th century. The resilience and faith required to maintain this lifestyle are humbling to contemplate.
Wildlife and Natural Wonders
Skellig Michael is as famous for its wildlife as for its monastic history. The surrounding waters are rich with marine life: dolphins, porpoises, grey seals, and occasional basking sharks and minke whales. The boat journey to the island often features close encounters with these creatures, adding an element of wildlife safari to the experience. Fulmars, kittiwakes, and razorbills nest on the cliffs, their calls echoing off the stone walls.
Little Skellig, the smaller island visible from Skellig Michael, is off-limits to visitors but is a spectacle in its own right. It hosts over 30,000 pairs of gannets, making it the second-largest gannet colony in the world. The sight and sound of these massive seabirds wheeling overhead is overwhelming. The guano that whitens the island’s cliffs is testament to the sheer number of birds that breed there each year.
The plant life on Skellig Michael is surprisingly diverse given the harsh conditions. Sea thrift, sea campion, and rock samphire cling to the cliffs, while the monastic terraces support a wider variety of grasses and wildflowers. The isolation has allowed unique genetic variations to develop in some species. The island is also an important stopover for migratory birds, including warblers, finches, and the elusive corncrake.
Skellig Michael in Popular Culture
Skellig Michael achieved global fame through its appearance in Star Wars: The Force Awakens (2015) and Star Wars: The Last Jedi (2017), where it stood in for the location of the first Jedi temple and the island where Luke Skywalker lived in exile. The filmmakers were drawn to the island’s otherworldly beauty and its sense of ancient, solitary power. The scenes featuring Skellig Michael are among the most visually striking in the entire Star Wars saga.
The Star Wars connection brought a dramatic increase in visitor numbers, from around 11,000 per year before the films to over 16,000 in subsequent seasons. This surge has put pressure on the fragile island ecosystem and the ancient stone structures. The Office of Public Works, which manages the site, has responded by strictly limiting visitor numbers to no more than 180 people per day, spread across 13 boat operators who are licensed to land.
Before Star Wars, Skellig Michael had already captured the imagination of writers and artists. It features in George Bernard Shaw’s writings and inspired the climactic scene in the 1970 film Ryan’s Daughter. The island’s stark beauty and profound sense of isolation continue to inspire photographers, painters, and poets who seek to capture its unique atmosphere.
Planning Your Visit to Skellig Michael
Visiting Skellig Michael requires careful planning. The landing season runs from mid-May through early October, with weather being the ultimate determinant of weather boats can land. Even in summer, trips are frequently cancelled due to high winds or heavy swells. Build flexibility into your itinerary and allow several days in the area to maximize your chances of a successful visit. Booking well in advance is essential, as the limited daily capacity means places sell out months ahead.
The boat journey from Portmagee, Valentia Island, or Ballinskelligs takes between 45 minutes and one hour. The crossing can be rough, so seasickness medication is advisable for those prone to motion sickness. Wear sturdy footwear for the climb, waterproof clothing for the unpredictable weather, and carry water and snacks as there are no facilities on the island. The visit time is strictly limited to around two to three hours, which provides just enough time to climb to the monastery, explore the settlement, and begin the descent.
The nearby Skellig Experience Centre on Valentia Island provides excellent background information on the island’s history, geology, and wildlife. The centre displays a full-scale replica of a monastic hut and offers audiovisual presentations that bring the story to life. Combined with a boat trip around the island (which is an excellent alternative if landing is not possible), the centre provides a comprehensive understanding of why Skellig Michael is considered one of Ireland’s most sacred and spectacular places.
Would you brave the Atlantic crossing to climb the 618 steps of Skellig Michael?
Explore all our Ireland travel guides, from Dublin pubs to the Wild Atlantic Way.
Explore More
If you enjoyed this article, you might also like:
- Aran Islands – Experience the Real Ireland – Ireland
- Ireland: Touring By Car – Ireland
- Outdoor Activities In West Ireland This Summer – Ireland
