The ferry pulls away from the dock at Tavira and the mainland recedes. The Ria Formosa lagoon spreads out around you, a maze of salt pans, sandbars, and marsh grass where flamingos stand on one leg and egrets stalk the shallows. Twenty minutes later you step onto Ilha de Tavira, eleven kilometres of beach with a campsite, a handful of restaurants, and nothing else. The Algarve stripped to its essentials. Here are seven things you need to know before you go.
In This Article
- The Ferry Runs Year Round, But the Schedule Changes
- The Beach Is Enormous, and It Gets Quieter the Further You Walk
- The Water Is Warmer Than the Western Algarve
- The Campsite Is the Only Accommodation on the Island
- The Restaurants Close Early, So Bring Supplies
- The Birdlife Is Spectacular Year Round
- Tavira Itself Is Worth a Full Day
The Ferry Runs Year Round, But the Schedule Changes
From the centre of Tavira, the ferry takes twenty minutes to reach the island. In summer, from June through September, the ferries run every thirty minutes from early morning until evening. In winter, the frequency drops significantly, sometimes to just a handful of crossings per day. The return ticket costs two euros and fifty cents, making it one of the best value beach trips in the Algarve. Check the tide times before you go. At low tide, the ferry cannot dock at the main jetty and you may need to wade the last few metres through shallow water.
The Beach Is Enormous, and It Gets Quieter the Further You Walk
Eleven kilometres of sand stretch from the jetty to the far western tip of the island. The eastern end, nearest the ferry dock and the restaurants, is the busiest. Families cluster here with umbrellas and coolers. Walk west for ten minutes and the crowds thin. Walk for thirty minutes and you will have entire stretches of beach to yourself. The far western end is officially a naturist beach, though the designation is relaxed and enforced mostly by the absence of tourists. The sand is fine and golden, the water is clear, and the dunes behind the beach are protected as part of the Ria Formosa Natural Park.
The Water Is Warmer Than the Western Algarve
The eastern Algarve has shallower water and more sheltered beaches than the Atlantic facing west coast. The water temperature reaches twenty three degrees Celsius in August, several degrees warmer than Sagres or Lagos. The sea is calm, with gentle waves that make it ideal for children and swimmers who prefer not to battle Atlantic swells. The best swimming is at mid tide, when the water is deep enough to swim without walking out too far.
The Campsite Is the Only Accommodation on the Island
Parque de Campismo da Ilha de Tavira is the only place to stay overnight on the island. It offers tent pitches, campervan spaces, and basic bungalows. The facilities include showers, a small shop, and a restaurant. Booking months ahead is essential for July and August. Sleeping on the island means you experience it at its best, in the early morning when the day trippers have not yet arrived and in the evening when the last ferry has taken everyone else back to the mainland. The sunsets from the western end of the beach are spectacular.
The Restaurants Close Early, So Bring Supplies
The handful of restaurants on the island serve grilled fish, salads, and cold drinks, but they close by five in the afternoon. The last ferry back to Tavira leaves at seven in summer. If you plan to stay until the last ferry, bring water and snacks. There is no supermarket on the island and once the restaurants close, there is nowhere to buy anything. The restaurant near the campsite stays open later in summer, but do not rely on it.
The Birdlife Is Spectacular Year Round
The Ria Formosa lagoon is one of the most important wetland habitats in Europe. It is a stopover for migratory birds travelling between Europe and Africa. Flamingos are the most visible, their pink bodies contrasting with the blue of the lagoon. Storks, spoonbills, avocets, and egrets are common. The best birdwatching is early in the morning, before the beach gets busy, when the birds are feeding in the shallow waters of the lagoon behind the dunes.
Tavira Itself Is Worth a Full Day
The town on the mainland is arguably the prettiest on the Algarve. The Roman bridge dates back to the second century. The thirty seven churches, the castle ruins, the narrow cobbled streets of the old town, all of it feels untouched by the mass tourism that has transformed other parts of the Algarve. Explore Tavira before or after your beach day. The market sells fresh fish and local produce. The riverside restaurants serve grilled sardines and cataplana. The town deserves at least a day of your time.
What is your favourite beach that required a ferry, a walk, or some effort to reach, and was it worth the journey?
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