Prague is the most beautiful city in Central Europe, a UNESCO World heritage site whose medieval Old Town, the Charles Bridge, and the largest castle complex in the world (Prague Castle, founded in the 9th century) have survived the wars and the decades of communist neglect that scarred so many European capitals to emerge as one of the most visited and most photogenic cities on the continent. A first trip to Prague can be overwhelming, the crowds on the Charles Bridge and the Old Town Square are real (Prague is the fourth most-visited city in Europe), the tourist-trap restaurants serving “traditional Czech cuisine” at inflated prices are numerous, and the city’s geography, the Vltava River, the two sides (the Old Town on the right bank, the Lesser Town and the Castle on the left), and the hills, can be disorientating. Here is a practical guide to getting Prague right the first time.

Quick Facts: Your First Trip to Prague

• When to go: The best months: April–June and September–October (the weather is mild, the crowds are smaller, and the light, especially in October, when the city turns to gold and amber, is beautiful). Avoid July–August if possible (the crowds are at their peak and the Old Town is barely navigable, if you must go in summer, start your days at 7am and retreat to the parks and the riverside in the afternoon). Christmas (late November–December) is magical, the Old Town Square market is one of the most beautiful in Europe, but also very busy
• Where to stay: The Lesser Town (Malá Strana) below the Castle (the most beautiful neighbourhood, quieter than the Old Town, with baroque palaces, hidden gardens, and the riverbank. A hotel or apartment here is the best choice. ~€80–150/night). The Old Town (Staré Město, more central, more crowded, more convenient for the sights. ~€70–140/night). Vinohrady (the residential neighbourhood behind the National Museum, a 15-minute walk from the Old Town, with excellent cafés, restaurants, and parks, and a more local, less touristy atmosphere. The best-value accommodation in the centre. ~€50–120/night)
• Don’t miss: The Charles Bridge at dawn (the most famous sight in Prague, and the most crowded. Go at 6am, the bridge is empty, the statues are silhouetted against the morning light, and the view of the Castle is unforgettable. You will have it almost to yourself). Prague Castle (the largest ancient castle complex in the world, allow 3–4 hours. The essential parts: St. Vitus Cathedral, the soaring Gothic masterpiece, the Golden Lane, a row of tiny 16th-century houses built into the castle walls, and the view from the castle ramparts over the red-tiled roofs of the Lesser Town. Entry to the complex is free; a circuit ticket for the main interiors is ~CZK 250/€10). The Old Town Square and the Astronomical Clock (the clock’s hourly show, the 12 apostles parading past the windows, is the most overrated attraction in Prague. The clock itself, installed in 1410 and the oldest working astronomical clock in the world, is extraordinary. Admire the clock, skip the show, and spend the time in the excellent galleries and cafés of the surrounding streets). The Petřín Hill (the green hill south of the Castle, a funicular railway, a rose garden, a mirror maze, a miniature Eiffel Tower (the Petřín Lookout Tower, built 1891, climb for the best panoramic view of the city), and a network of quiet paths through the orchards. The best escape from the crowds on a sunny afternoon). And a beer garden, Letná Park (the Beer Garden with the best view in Prague, overlooking the river and the Old Town) or Riegrovy Sady in Vinohrady (the local favourite, a casual, friendly beer garden in a residential park, with the best sunset view of the Castle. A large Pilsner Urquell: ~CZK 50/€2)
• Practical tips: Do not change money on the street, the exchange rates are terrible and the commission is hidden. Use an ATM (the bank ATMs, Česká spořitelna, KB, ČSOB, not the Euronet ATMs, which charge extortionate fees). Prague is safe but the Old Town and the Charles Bridge are pickpocket territory, keep your valuables secure. Book the main attractions online in advance, the queues for the Castle, the Old Town Hall tower, and the Jewish Quarter are long in summer