The cannon on the Lotrscak Tower fires every day at noon, a tradition that has continued since 1877. The sound echoes across the red rooftops of the upper Town, startling tourists and reassuring locals that some things in Zagreb do not change. Croatia’s capital is often overlooked by travellers who head straight for the Adriatic coast, but this is a mistake. Zagreb offers two distinct historic centres, an extraordinary number of museums for a city of its size, and a cafe culture that rivals Vienna. Here is what you need to know to explore this underrated capital.
In This Article
The upper Town: Medieval Streets and the Museum of Broken Relationships
The upper Town, Gornji Grad, is the medieval heart of Zagreb. Cobbled streets wind past the colourful tiled roof of St Mark’s Church, the baroque facade of the Jesuit church, and the Lotrscak Tower where the daily cannon is fired. The view from the Strossmayer promenade, a wooden walkway that runs along the edge of the upper Town, offers a panorama of the Lower Town and the mountains beyond. The Museum of Broken Relationships is the most unique museum in Zagreb and one of the most unusual in Europe. It collects objects donated by people from around the world, each accompanied by a story of a failed relationship. A pair of high heeled shoes, a toaster, a prosthetic leg, each object tells a story of love lost. It is funny, heartbreaking, and deeply human. The museum costs about seven euros and deserves at least an hour of your time. It is located in a beautiful eighteenth century palace in the upper Town.
The Lower Town: Austro-Hungarian Elegance and Green Spaces
The Lower Town, Donji Grad, was laid out in the nineteenth century in the Austro-Hungarian style. Wide boulevards, grand public buildings, and a horseshoe of green spaces known as the Lenuci Horseshoe or Green Horseshoe. The Croatian National Theatre, the Art Pavilion, and the Botanical Garden are all located along this green belt. The main square, Ban Jelacic Square, is the heart of the city, a busy intersection of tram lines and pedestrian streets that leads into the market district. The Archaeological Museum and the Mimara Museum are both worth a visit, with collections that span from prehistory to the modern era.
The Dolac Market: Red Umbrellas and Fresh Produce
The Dolac Market sits above the main square, a sprawling farmers’ market that has been the city’s primary food market for decades. The red umbrellas of the stalls are one of Zagreb’s most recognisable symbols. The market sells fresh fruit and vegetables, local cheeses, cured meats, and flowers. Go in the morning for the best selection. The market spills down the steps into the square below, where fishmongers and butchers have their stalls. A coffee at one of the market cafes, watching the bustle of the city, is a classic Zagreb experience. The market is open daily except Sunday.
Mirogoj Cemetery: A Work of Art
Mirogoj is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe. Designed by architect Hermann Bollé in the nineteenth century, it features sweeping arcades covered in ivy, with cypress trees and carefully maintained gardens. The arcades contain the tombs of Croatia’s most notable figures, including politicians, writers, and artists. It is a short tram ride from the centre of the city and is worth the journey even if you do not usually visit cemeteries. The peaceful atmosphere and the beauty of the architecture make it a genuinely moving experience. The entrance is free.
The Cafe Culture and Tkalciceva Street
Zagreb’s cafe culture is one of the best in Central Europe. The main cafe street is Tkalciceva, a pedestrianised thoroughfare lined with outdoor terraces where locals sit for hours over a single coffee. The coffee culture is serious. Order a kava, a small strong coffee served with a glass of water, and settle in for a long afternoon of people watching. The street is also the centre of Zagreb’s nightlife, with bars and restaurants that stay open late. Zagreb has been voted the best Christmas market destination in Europe multiple times, and the Advent season transforms the upper Town into a winter wonderland with ice skating, mulled wine, and festive stalls that draw visitors from across the continent.
What surprised you most about Zagreb. The Museum of Broken Relationships, the cafe culture, the beauty of Mirogoj, or the cannon that fires every day at noon?
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