Plitvice Lakes National Park (Nacionalni Park Plitvička Jezera) is the most beautiful natural attraction in Croatia and one of the most spectacular national parks in Europe, a UNESCO World heritage site since 1979, a karst landscape of 16 interconnected lakes arranged in cascading terraces, separated by natural travertine dams and connected by a series of waterfalls and boardwalks that allow you to walk through, over, and around the water in an experience that feels like entering a fantasy landscape. The water at Plitvice is the colour of liquid turquoise, an almost impossibly vivid blue-green that changes shade with the angle of the sun, the depth of the lake, and the mineral content of the water, and the wooden boardwalks that wind through the lakes, skimming just above the surface of the water, are one of the most beautiful walking experiences in Europe. Plitvice is Croatia’s most visited national park (over 1.7 million visitors a year) and it can be uncomfortably crowded in peak summer, the secret is to visit at the right time, enter at the right entrance, and walk the right route.

Quick Facts: Plitvice Lakes National Park

• Best time to visit: May–June and September–October for the best balance of weather, water levels, and manageable crowds. July–August is extremely busy, the boardwalks can become a single-file queue, especially around the Great Waterfall (Veliki Slap) and the lower lakes. Winter (December–February) is magical if the lakes freeze, the waterfalls turn to ice, the boardwalks are dusted with snow, and the crowds are almost non-existent, but parts of the upper lakes may be closed, and the boardwalks can be treacherous. Spring (April–May) has the highest water levels and the most powerful waterfalls; autumn (October) has the most spectacular colours, the beech and maple forests around the lakes turn to gold, amber, and crimson, reflected in the turquoise water in a display that rivals anywhere in Europe
• How to get there: ~2 hours from Zagreb by car; ~2 hours from Zadar; ~3 hours from Split. The park has two main entrances: Entrance 1 (the lower lakes, the Great Waterfall and the most dramatic scenery) and Entrance 2 (the upper lakes, quieter and closer to the main hotels). The park is well-served by buses from Zagreb, Zadar, and Split (check the schedule, the connections can be infrequent outside summer). Parking is available at both entrances (~€1/hour, budget 4–6 hours for a visit)
• The essential walking route (4–5 hours, moderate): Start at Entrance 1, walk the lower lakes (the Great Waterfall, Veliki Slap, at 78 metres is the highest waterfall in Croatia, and the boardwalk takes you right to the base of the cascade), take the boat across Lake Kozjak (the largest lake, the crossing is included in the ticket, the views of the forested shore and the distant waterfalls are beautiful), walk the upper lakes (the 12 upper lakes are smaller, shallower, and more intimate, the boardwalks wind through reeds and over cascades, and the water is even more intensely coloured than the lower lakes), and take the shuttle bus back to Entrance 1. The full circuit is ~8 km and covers the best of the park. Alternative: Start at Entrance 2 and walk the upper lakes first, the crowds are slightly thinner at Entrance 2
• Practical information: Entry: ~€10–40 (depending on the season, winter is cheapest, July–August most expensive). Book online in advance, the park limits visitor numbers and tickets for peak-season days can sell out. Download the park map. The boardwalks are narrow and have no railings, wear proper shoes (the wooden slats can be slippery after rain), take your time, and do not jostle. Swimming is strictly forbidden (the travertine dams and the unique ecosystem are fragile, the minerals from sunscreen, the disturbance of the sediment, and the impact of swimmers would degrade the lakes irreparably). The park’s restaurants are expensive and mediocre, bring a packed lunch and plenty of water