Edinburgh is one of the most romantic cities in Europe, a city of dramatic volcanic landscapes, medieval closes, a castle that seems to float above the city on its rock, and a quality of light (especially in autumn and winter, when the low sun turns the stone buildings to gold and honey) that has inspired poets, novelists, and lovers for centuries. A romantic weekend in Edinburgh does not require the Balmoral Hotel at £400 a night, the city rewards those who are willing to walk, to climb, to find a corner of a pub with a fire, and to discover the quiet beauty that lies behind the tourist trail.

Quick Facts: A Romantic Edinburgh Weekend on a Budget

• Where to stay: The New Town and the West End (the Georgian streets between Princes Street and the Water of Leith, elegant, quiet, and a 10–15 minute walk from the Old Town. A B&B or a serviced apartment: ~£80–130/night). Dean Village (a hidden, utterly romantic neighbourhood in the valley of the Water of Leith, a cluster of 19th-century mill buildings, cobbled streets, and a peaceful riverside walk that feels a world away from the city. A few B&Bs and apartments: ~£90–140/night). Stockbridge (a village-like neighbourhood just north of the New Town, independent shops, excellent pubs, a Sunday market, and the most romantic walk along the Water of Leith to the Gallery of Modern Art. ~£90–150/night)
• Romantic walks: The Water of Leith Walkway (from Dean Village to Stockbridge and on to the Gallery of Modern Art, one of the most beautiful urban walks in Britain. Free). The climb to Arthur’s Seat (the extinct volcano in Holyrood Park, the best view of Edinburgh. 45 minutes from the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Go for sunrise or sunset. Free). The walk along the top of Salisbury Crags (the dramatic cliff edge below Arthur’s Seat, the view of the city spread out below is one of the most romantic panoramas in the UK. Free). The Royal Botanic Garden (the glasshouses, the Chinese hillside, and the arboretum, beautiful and romantic in every season. Free (glasshouses: ~£7))
• Romantic food and drink on a budget: A beer and a bowl of cullen skink (smoked haddock chowder, the taste of Scotland in a bowl) at the Sheep Heid Inn in Duddingston (the oldest pub in Scotland, dating to 1360, a 15-minute walk from Arthur’s Seat). A whisky tasting at the Scotch Malt Whisky Society (Queen Street, the members’ rooms are cosy and romantic. A non-member can visit, the bar is excellent. A dram: ~£8–15). A meze and an intimate dinner at Hanam’s (a Kurdish restaurant in a vaulted cellar just off the Royal Mile, the candlelit atmosphere is romantic, the food is excellent, and the prices are very reasonable: ~£25–30 per person for a feast). Or a picnic on Calton Hill at sunset, buy supplies at Valvona & Crolla (the legendary Italian deli on Elm Row, a sourdough loaf, some cured meat, a wedge of cheese, and a bottle of wine) and watch the sun set behind the castle. The cheapest and most romantic dinner in Edinburgh. Free (the picnic spot). ~£15–20 (the supplies)