The sand at Cala Goloritzè, a cove on Sardinia’s eastern coast, accessible only by boat or a 90-minute hike down a goat track from the Golgo plateau, is white limestone pebbles, the water a shade of turquoise that makes swimming pools look like they are not even trying, and the limestone arch (Monte Caroddi, a 143-metre natural bridge that frames the bay like a geological proscenium arch) rising from the water on the left as you swim out into the bay. Italy has 7,600 km of coastline and some of the most beautiful beaches in the Mediterranean. The best ones require effort. The reward is proportional to the difficulty of access.

Italy’s Best Beaches: The Ones Worth the Journey

Sardinia (the Costa Smeralda and beyond): The Costa Smeralda, the Emerald Coast, the celebrity beach strip, the Aga Khan’s 1960s development project that transformed a stretch of Sardinian coastline into the most expensive real estate in the Mediterranean, has the brand recognition, but the best beaches are elsewhere on the island. Cala Goloritzè (the hike, the arch, the water, the descent is steep but manageable, the bay is protected as a natural monument, the beach capacity is limited to 250 people daily in high season, arrive early or book the boat from Cala Gonone). La Pelosa (Stintino, the northwest, the shallow water stretching 100 metres from the shore, the water so clear the boats appear to float on air, the beach capacity 1,500, the €3.50 entry fee in high season, book online up to 72 hours in advance). Cala Luna (the crescent of sand backed by sea caves, accessible by boat or a 3-hour hike from Cala Fuili, the hike is beautiful, the boat is faster, the choice is yours).

The Amalfi Coast (Campania): The Amalfi Coast is not famous for its beaches, the coastline is cliffs, the beaches are small, the access is steep, but the few beaches that exist are beautiful and hard-won. Marina di Praia (the small cove between the cliffs, the former fishing harbour, the beach bar, the Lido, the sun loungers, the Aperol spritz served to your lounger, the most civilised beach experience on the coast). Spiaggia di Fornillo (Positano, the smaller, quieter alternative to the main Positano beach, the 15-minute walk along the coastal path from the main town, the water clear, the crowds manageable). The Amalfi Coast in July and August is packed, the beaches are small, the demand is high, the sun loungers (€25-40 per day) sell out. June and September are the compromise: warm water, fewer people, lower prices.

Puglia (the heel of Italy): The Salento peninsula, the heel of the Italian boot, the coastline alternating between sandy beaches and rocky coves, the water the warmest in Italy (25-27°C in August, the Adriatic on one side, the Ionian on the other), is the Italian beach region that the international tourism industry has not yet fully colonised. Baia dei Turchi (the beach where, according to local legend, Turkish invaders landed in the 15th century; the pine forest behind the beach, the sand white, the water shallow, the approach through the forest, a 15-minute walk from the car park, magical). Pescoluse (the “Maldives of Salento,” the shallow water stretching 200 metres from the shore, the sand dunes behind the beach, the beach bars serving friselle, the hard, twice-baked bread soaked in seawater and topped with tomatoes and olive oil, the Salento summer ritual). Porto Selvaggio (the natural park, the pine forest, the 15-minute walk down to the cove, the water clear and deep, the cliff jumping, the rocks, the ledge at 5 metres, the locals who have been jumping here since childhood, the tourists who watch for ten minutes before summoning the courage).