The sweet steam of mulled wine rises from a ceramic mug, carrying notes of clove, cinnamon, and orange that mingle with the scent of roasting chestnuts and the crisp December air, and all around you, wooden stalls glow with the warm light of a thousand fairy lights. European Christmas market tradition dates back to the Late Middle Ages. Dresden’s Striezelmarkt, first held in 1434, is the oldest recorded Christmas market in the world. Today, the tradition has spread across the continent, transforming the cities and towns of Central and Northern Europe into winter wonderlands of light, scent, and sound. From Germany’s grand squares to France’s Alsatian villages, these are the Christmas markets that make winter travel in Europe unforgettable.
In This Article
Germany: The Home of the Christmas Market
Germany invented the Christmas market, and it still does it best. Nuremberg’s Christkindlesmarkt is the most famous. The main square, Hauptmarkt, is filled with 180 wooden stalls with red and white striped awnings. The Christkind, a local girl chosen to represent the Christmas Angel, opens the market with a prologue from the balcony of the Frauenkirche. The market is famous for its Lebkuchen, the spiced gingerbread that Nuremberg has been producing for centuries. The atmosphere in the evening, when the lights are on and the crowds are gathered around the mulled wine stalls, is genuinely magical. Dresden’s Striezelmarkt, the oldest in Germany, is named after the Stollen, the traditional Christmas cake. The Dresden Stollen Festival in early December features a giant Stollen weighing several tonnes that is paraded through the streets and then sold for charity. Cologne has multiple markets, but the one in front of the cathedral is the most spectacular setting. The twin spires of the Gothic cathedral, illuminated against the night sky, provide a backdrop that no other market can match. Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a perfectly preserved medieval town, becomes a Christmas card come to life in December.
France: Alsace, the Capital of Christmas
The Alsace region of eastern France claims the title of Capital of Christmas with justification. Strasbourg’s Christkindelsmärik, dating to 1570, spreads 300 stalls across the medieval city centre. The Great Christmas Tree in Place Kleber, one of the tallest in Europe, towers over the main square. The Petite France district, with its half timbered houses and canals, is decorated with lights that are reflected in the water. Colmar, smaller and even more beautiful than Strasbourg, has a market that feels more intimate and authentic. The markets in Alsace are distinguished by their culinary offerings. Vin chaud, the local mulled wine, is made with Alsatian wine and spices. Bredele, small butter cookies flavoured with anise, cinnamon, and lemon, are sold at every stall. The Alsatian Christmas markets are less crowded than their German counterparts and the setting is arguably more picturesque.
Austria: Elegant and Musical
Vienna’s Christkindlmarkt on the Rathausplatz is the classic Austrian Christmas market. The neo Gothic City Hall provides a magnificent backdrop for the market, the ice rink, and the carousel. The market at Schonbrunn Palace, set in the palace courtyard, is smaller and more refined. The Spittelberg market, in a neighbourhood of Biedermeier houses, is the most atmospheric. Salzburg’s Christkindlmarkt, set in front of the cathedral in Mozart’s birthplace, combines choral music with the scent of roasted almonds. The Austrian markets are known for their quality. The handicrafts are genuine, the food is excellent, and the atmosphere, especially in the smaller markets, is elegant and unhurried.
Czech Republic: Prague’s Old Town Square
Prague’s Old Town Square market is one of the most atmospheric in Central Europe. The backdrop of the Tyn Church and the Astronomical Clock, the lights reflected in the cobblestones, the smell of trdelník, the chimney cake that is the essential Prague street food. The market is busy in the evenings, and the crowds are part of the experience. The smaller market in the square below Prague Castle is less crowded and equally beautiful. Prague’s markets are more affordable than those in Germany or Austria, and the quality is comparable. The mulled wine, svařák, is cheaper and you get to keep the mug. The markets run from late November until early January, and the Christmas Eve atmosphere is particularly special.
When to Go and What to Drink
The Christmas market season runs from late November, usually the Friday before the first Advent Sunday, until December 23 or 24. Some markets, particularly in Germany, close on Christmas Eve. Others reopen between Christmas and New Year. The evenings are the best time to visit. The lights, the atmosphere, and the mulled wine are all enhanced by the darkness. Weekends are very busy. Visit midweek for a more relaxed experience. The essential market drink is Glühwein in Germany, vin chaud in France, svařák in the Czech Republic, and glögg in Scandinavia. Each has its own recipe and character. The mug is usually part of the deposit, and collectors will leave with a different mug from every market they visit. The best approach is to buy a mug at the first market and use it at subsequent stops. The mulled wine tastes better from a ceramic mug than a paper cup.
What is your favourite Christmas market city, the German classic, the Alsatian beauty, or the Prague magic?
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