The ice, 2 centimetres of clear ice on the surface of the Torneträsk Lake in Abisko, -25°C at 9pm on the 15th of January (200 km north of the Arctic Circle, 68.3° north, the snow covering the birch forest, the silence that is near-total, the only sound is the occasional crack of lake ice expanding), the Aurora Borealis that starts as a faint green smudge on the northern horizon at 10pm and grows into a bold ribbon of green and purple stretching from north to south across the entire Abisko sky, the -25°C that is irrelevant because the aurora is the most beautiful natural phenomenon on Earth, is the essential Abisko aurora experience. Abisko is the world’s leading aurora location: 200 km north of the Arctic Circle, the driest spot on the Scandinavian peninsula thanks to the rain shadow of the Norwegian mountains, and clear skies on 70% of winter nights, the best aurora statistics in the world. Here is your guide.

Abisko, The World’s Leading Aurora Location

• The aurora, the essential Abisko experience: The Abisko National Park sits in a unique microclimate: the Norwegian mountains to the west block the Atlantic moisture, creating a “blue hole” of clear sky over Abisko while surrounding areas are clouded over. The result: if you stay 3 nights in Abisko between November and March, your chance of seeing the aurora is over 80%, the highest probability anywhere in the world. The essential aurora experience: the Aurora Sky Station (the chairlift from the Abisko Turiststation, €85 for the evening, the 20-minute lift to the observation tower at 900 metres above sea level, the warm overalls and boots provided, the expert guides, and the best aurora-viewing infrastructure in the world). The essential: book 3–4 months in advance for the peak December–February slots, the Sky Station sells out weeks ahead. The alternative: walk out onto the frozen Torneträsk Lake from the Turiststation, free, equally dark, and the aurora reflects off the ice. The essential camera settings: a DSLR with a wide-angle lens (14–24mm), f/2.8 or faster, ISO 1600–3200, 10–15 second exposure, manual focus set to infinity, and a tripod, the tripod is non-negotiable at -25°C. More Sweden →
• The practicalities, getting there and what else to do: Getting to Abisko: the overnight train from Stockholm (the SJ Norrlandståg, 17 hours, depart Stockholm 6pm, arrive Abisko Turiststation 11am, the sleeper cabin from €80 per person, and the essential: book the 3-berth sleeper, the cheapest private compartment, 3 months ahead for winter). The alternative: fly to Kiruna (€150 return from Stockholm, 1.5 hours) then the train or bus to Abisko (1 hour, €10). What else to do in Abisko during the day: the days are short (the sun rises at 10am and sets at 1pm in December, 3 hours of twilight, no direct sunlight for several weeks around the solstice), but the daylight hours are pure Arctic beauty: the dogsled tour (€150 for 2 hours, the essential Arctic experience: 6 huskies, the silent forest, the frozen lake, and the best morning in Abisko), the snowshoe hike through the national park (the Kungsleden trail starts here, the “King’s Trail”, the 3-hour guided snowshoe: €50, the birch forest, the frozen canyon, and the view of the Lapporten, the U-shaped valley that is the symbol of Abisko), the ice climbing on the frozen waterfalls in the Björkliden (€120 for the half-day, no experience required, and the most exhilarating afternoon in Arctic Sweden), the sauna at the Turiststation (€10, the wood-fired, the 80°C, the roll in the snow afterwards, the essential Nordic ritual). The essential Abisko practicalities: the Turiststation is the main accommodation (dorm from €40, double room from €150, book 6 months ahead for winter), the restaurant serves reindeer, Arctic char, and lingonberry for €25 for the evening meal, and the essential: bring the warmest clothing you own, then buy one extra layer in Stockholm, the -25°C in Abisko is colder than you think.