Beyond the crowded resorts and all-inclusive hotels lies a Tenerife of ancient forests, volcanic peaks, and hidden villages where the pace of life is measured by the rhythm of the sun and the seasons rather than the tourist calendar.
In This Article
Teide National Park: A Volcanic Wonderland
The centrepiece of Tenerife’s non-commercial side is the Teide National Park, a UNESCO World heritage site dominated by Mount Teide, Spain’s highest mountain and the third largest volcano on earth from its base on the ocean floor. The landscape of the national park is stark and otherworldly, with vast lava fields, twisted rock formations, and an enormous caldera that stretches for miles beneath the summit. Visitors can take a cable car to within 200 metres of the summit, but a permit is required to climb the final section to the peak itself. The view from the top on a clear day extends across the entire Canary Islands archipelago, with the islands of La Gomera, La Palma, and Gran Canaria visible on the horizon. The park is also one of the best places in the world for stargazing, with exceptionally clear skies and minimal light pollution that have made it a designated Starlight Reserve. The Teide Observatory, located within the park, is one of the world’s leading astronomical research facilities and offers guided night-time visits for visitors.
The Anaga Rural Park: Ancient Forests
The Anaga Rural Park in the northeast of Tenerife is a completely different landscape from the volcanic south, a lush and ancient forest that feels like something from a prehistoric era. The park is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and is home to one of the best-preserved laurel forests in the world, a type of subtropical forest that covered much of the Mediterranean region during the Tertiary period. The forest is dense and humid, with trees draped in mosses and lichens, and the air is filled with the calls of native birds. A network of hiking trails winds through the park, leading to remote hamlets where traditional Canarian life continues much as it has for centuries. The village of Taganana, perched on the rugged northern coast, is one of the most beautiful and least visited settlements on the island, with traditional houses, a small church, and dramatic views of the Atlantic Ocean. The Anaga mountains also offer some of the best coastal hiking on Tenerife, with trails that descend through the forest to isolated black sand beaches accessible only on foot.
Masca: The hidden Village
The village of Masca, tucked into a remote valley in the Teno Mountains of western Tenerife, is one of the most dramatic and unspoilt settlements on the island. The approach to Masca is an experience in itself, descending along a narrow, winding road that clings to the side of the gorge, offering hairpin turns and breathtaking views at every corner. The village itself is a cluster of traditional Canarian houses with wooden balconies and red-tiled roofs, surrounded by terraced fields that have been carved into the steep valley walls. The main attraction in Masca is the hike through the Masca Gorge, a spectacular descent through a narrow ravine that ends at a pebble beach on the coast. The hike takes around three hours and requires some scrambling over rocks, but the scenery is unforgettable. After the hike, a boat collects hikers from the beach and returns them to the nearby port of Los Gigantes. Masca remains relatively undiscovered by mass tourism, offering a glimpse of the traditional Canarian way of life that has largely disappeared from the more developed parts of the island.
Local Culture and Traditional Villages
Tenerife’s non-commercial side is best experienced through its traditional villages and local cultural practices. The town of La Orotava, in the north of the island, is one of the most beautiful in the Canary Islands, with a historic centre filled with ornate Baroque churches, noble mansions, and cobbled streets. The Casa de los Balcones is a 17th-century mansion that exemplifies traditional Canarian architecture, with its intricate wooden balconies and interior courtyard garden. The nearby town of Puerto de la Cruz offers a more relaxed alternative to the resorts of the south, with a charming old quarter, a botanical garden, and the famous Lago Martiáinez swimming complex designed by the Canarian artist César Manrique. Further afield, the villages of El Sauzal, Tacoronte, and Icod de los Vinos offer wine tasting opportunities at local bodegas, where the volcanic soils produce distinctive wines with a unique mineral character. The Dragon Tree in Icod de los Vinos, estimated to be over a thousand years old, is a living symbol of the island’s natural and cultural heritage.
Are you ready to trade the crowded beaches and tourist bars for the ancient forests and volcanic peaks of Tenerife’s hidden heart?
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