St Albans combines Roman history, medieval architecture, and modern prosperity in a way that few English towns can match. The great Cathedral, built from Roman bricks scavenged from the abandoned city of Verulamium, rises above the parkland and shopping streets. The remains of the Roman theatre, one of only two of its kind in Britain, lie in a grassy field a short walk from the city centre. The clock tower, built in 1405, still rings the hours over the market square. St Albans is a commuter town for London, but it has the soul of a city that has been inhabited for two thousand years.
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St Albans is a town in southern Hertforshire, about 35 km north of London. It is one of the most beautiful towns around London. The town lies on the River Ver, the remains of important Roman settlement Verulamium, which was one of the most important cities in Roman Britain. The town is named after the Romano-British saint Alban, the first Christian martyr executed in Britain.
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\nPhoto licensed under the Creative Commons, created by Ben Wong
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In This Article
Roman Verulamium: Theatre, Mosaics, and the Hypocaust
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The Roman city of Verulamium was the third largest settlement in Roman Britain, after London and Colchester. Today its remains form one of the most accessible Roman archaeological sites in the country. The Verulamium Museum, built on the site of the Roman city, displays an extraordinary collection of mosaics, including the famous Verulamium Mosaic, a 4th-century floor covering more than 5 metres square with geometric patterns and mythological scenes. The museum also houses the remains of a Roman hypocaust, an underfloor heating system that demonstrates the sophistication of Roman engineering. The Roman Theatre of Verulamium, the only example of its type in Britain, could seat 2,000 spectators and was used for dramatic performances, religious ceremonies, and public meetings. Its semicircular orchestra and tiered stone seating are still clearly visible. Next to the theatre, the remains of the Roman city wall, built around 275 AD, enclose a large area of parkland where the foundations of shops, houses, and public buildings can be traced in the grass.
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The Cathedral and the Shrine of St Alban
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St Albans Cathedral, officially the Cathedral and Abbey Church of St Alban, stands on the hill where Alban was executed around 250 AD. The building is unique among English cathedrals because it was constructed largely from recycled Roman brick and tile, salvaged from the crumbling buildings of Verulamium. The Norman tower, built of red Roman tiles, is the most striking external feature, and it is the only 11th-century great tower still standing in England. The interior is dominated by the magnificent wooden ceiling, painted in the 13th century with intricate patterns that were restored in the 19th century. The shrine of St Alban, a marble pedestal composed of more than 2,000 small fragments, was reconstructed from pieces found during restoration work in the 19th century. Pilgrims have travelled to this shrine for over 1,700 years, making St Albans one of the oldest continuously used Christian pilgrimage sites in Britain. Next to it is a tomb of Duke Humphrey of Gloucester. The cathedral’s wall paintings, dating from the 13th century, depict scenes from the life of Christ and the story of St Alban.
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Medieval Town Life: The Clock Tower, Pubs, and Modern St Albans
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In St Albans you can also visit the oldest surviving pub in England – Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, located on the street Abbey Mill Lane. It is also one of the most unusual constructions and originally served as a medieval dovecote dating from the 11th century. The pub claims to be the oldest in England, with a licence that has been continuously renewed since 793 AD. The medieval clock tower, built in 1405, is the only surviving medieval town belfry in England and offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding countryside from its top. The weekly market, held on Wednesdays and Saturdays in the market square, has been operating since the 12th century. According to the recent research of Nationwide Building Society, St Albans is now the 3rd most expensive city in UK (after the heart of London – Westminster followed by Winchester). The town is well served by trains from London St Pancras, with a journey time of only 20 minutes, making it a popular base for visitors who want to explore both Roman Britain and contemporary English life.
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