The ferry glides across Lago Maggiore, past reedy islands and palatial villas reflected in the still water. The Borromean Islands emerge slowly from the mist, each one a different chapter in a story of aristocratic ambition and natural beauty. Isola Bella rises like a stone ship, its baroque palace and terraced gardens overflowing with white peacocks and exotic plants. Isola dei Pescatori, the only inhabited island, offers a quieter scene of fishing nets and lakeside restaurants. Together they form one of Italy’s most romantic day trips, a floating world of art, gardens, and lake views.
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A Tour of the Three Main Islands
The Borromean Islands comprise three main landmasses, each with its own distinct character and history. Isola Bella is the most famous, named after Isabella Borromeo. What was once a barren rock was transformed in the 17th century into a magnificent baroque palace surrounded by ten terraced gardens. The palace interior is adorned with paintings, tapestries, and period furniture that reflect the wealth of the Borromeo family. White peacocks roam freely through the gardens, and the shell-encrusted grottoes are a highlight of any visit. The gardens themselves are arranged in tiers, each level offering a different perspective of the lake and surrounding Alps.
Isola Madre is the largest of the islands and is renowned for its botanical gardens, which are among the finest in Italy. The island’s palace is smaller than that of Isola Bella but contains an impressive collection of 16th to 19th-century masterpieces, including paintings by Venetian artists and elaborate marionettes from the Borromeo family collection. The gardens are home to exotic plants from around the world, including giant rhododendrons, camellias, and rare trees. The island also hosts a population of wild birds, including brightly coloured pheasants that wander freely through the grounds.
Isola dei Pescatori, also known as Isola Superiore, is the only permanently inhabited island. Unlike its grand neighbours, this island retains the atmosphere of a traditional fishing village, with narrow lanes, modest houses, and a small church. Around 50 residents live here year-round, and the island offers a welcome contrast to the formality of the palaces. Visitors come here for the relaxed pace of life, the lakeside restaurants serving fresh fish, and the sense of stepping back to a simpler time.
The Gardens and Palaces of Isola Madre
Isola Madre deserves special attention for its extraordinary gardens. Covering approximately eight hectares, the garden was laid out in the 19th century and has since grown into a lush paradise of rare and exotic species. The mild microclimate created by Lake Maggiore allows for the cultivation of plants that would not normally survive at this latitude. Giant wisteria vines drape over pergolas, banks of azaleas and rhododendrons burst into colour each spring, and towering camphor trees provide shade on warm summer days.
The palace on Isola Madre dates from the 16th century and has been carefully preserved by the Borromeo family. Inside, visitors can explore rooms furnished with antiques, silk wall coverings, and painted ceilings. One of the most unusual attractions is the puppet museum, which houses a collection of more than 200 marionettes used for performances in the 18th and 19th centuries. The palace chapel features a striking altarpiece and offers a quiet space for reflection.
Beyond the formal gardens, Isola Madre has areas of wild woodland where native trees grow alongside introduced species. The island’s elevated position provides panoramic views of the lake, with the Alps visible on clear days. Many visitors spend several hours here, wandering through the different garden rooms and stopping to admire the vistas from the many benches placed along the pathways.
Planning Your Visit to the Borromean Islands
The best time to visit the Borromean Islands is between April and October, when the gardens are in full bloom and the ferry services run frequently. Spring is particularly beautiful, with the azaleas and rhododendrons flowering from April through June. Summer is the busiest season, with crowds peaking in August. For a quieter experience, visit in late September or early October, when the weather remains pleasant but the summer crowds have thinned.
Ferries depart regularly from Stresa, Baveno, and Pallanza on the western shore of Lake Maggiore. The journey from Stresa to Isola Bella takes approximately 10 minutes. A combined ticket for the palaces and gardens of Isola Bella and Isola Madre costs around 24 euros. Visitors can hop between the islands using the regular waterbus service, which runs throughout the day. Allow at least three to four hours to explore all three islands properly.
Accommodation is available in Stresa and the surrounding towns, ranging from luxury lakeside hotels to more affordable guesthouses. The area is well-connected by train from Milan, making the Borromean Islands an easy day trip from the city. However, staying overnight allows visitors to experience the islands in the early morning and late afternoon, when the light is at its most beautiful and the crowds have dispersed.
Which Borromean Island calls to you: the baroque palace or the quiet fishing village? 🏝
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