The Dunajec River twists through the limestone cliffs of the Pieniny Mountains, its green waters churning around sharp bends. Traditional wooden rafts, lashed together by ropes and guided by long poles, carry passengers through the gorge. The highlanders who steer these rafts wear embroidered vests and call out warnings in the local dialect as the current picks up speed. Limestone peaks rise abruptly on both sides, their slopes covered in beech and fir forests. The raft bumps against a submerged rock, sending a spray of cold water across the bow.
Pieniny National Park (Polish: Pieniński Park Narodowy) is a protected area in Lesser Poland Voivodeship, southern Poland, in the heart of the Pieniny Mountains.
Pieniny National Park is one of the smallest Polish National Parks, lying in the southernmost part of the country, on the border with Slovakia. The Pieniny mountain range is divided into three parts:
* Pieniny Spiskie – extends between Dursztyn village and Niedzica, with the highest peak Żar (883 metres above mean sea level (ASL).
* Pieniny Właściwe – extends between Czorsztyn and Szczawnica and culminates with the Okrąglica peak (982 metres ASL) in the Three Crowns massif. By climbing this summit, a splendid, panoramic overview of the vast area can be gained and enjoyed.
* Małe Pieniny – extends between the Dunajec river (in the victinity of Szczawnica) and the Rozdziela pass in the east. The highest peak of Pieniny is the Wysoka mountain (1,050 metres ASL).
The Park’s area is 23.46 km², of which 13.11 km² is forested. One-third (7.5 km²) is strictly protected.
The most attractive part of the mountain range, from both natural and scenic points of view, is the Pieniny Właściwe range. The peaks here are beautifully jagged and the valleys often form rocky gorges. The northern faces slope gently into the valleys; the southern and eastern picturesque limestone cliffs (which are up to 300 metres high) drop down suddenly to the Dunajec river.
Pieniny National Park has its headquarters in the village of Krościenko nad Dunajcem. This national park continues on the Slovakian side of the mountains, called Pieninský národný park.
View Pieniny National Park in Poland in a larger map
Hiking the Three Crowns Massif
The Three Crowns, known as Trzy Korony in Polish, is the highest peak of the Pieniny range at 982 metres and offers one of the most rewarding summit hikes in southern Poland. The trail from the village of Krościenko nad Dunajcem follows a well-marked path through beech and fir forest, ascending steadily for about two hours to the summit clearing. The final section opens onto a rocky plateau where the view across the Dunajec River gorge is nothing short of spectacular. On clear days, the panorama extends across the Tatra Mountains to the south, the Gorce range to the north, and the distant Babia Góra massif to the west. The summit is protected as a strict nature reserve, and hikers must stay on the marked path at all times. Entry costs 5 zloty, and the trail is open from May through October. Start early in the morning to avoid the midday heat and the crowds that gather on the summit by late morning.
For those seeking a longer hike, the ridge trail connecting the Three Crowns to the nearby peak of Sokolica adds another hour each way and offers equally dramatic views of the Dunajec River meandering through the gorge below. Sokolica’s summit features a distinctive lone pine tree that has become a symbol of the Pieniny region. The entire circuit from Krościenko, up to Three Crowns, along the ridge to Sokolica, and down to the river, takes approximately six hours and covers 15 kilometres. Allow time at the end to rest at one of the riverside restaurants in Krościenko, where grilled trout and cold Polish beer reward tired legs.
The Dunajec River Rafting Experience
The wooden raft ride through the Dunajec Gorge is the most famous attraction in the Pieniny region and has been operating continuously since the 19th century. The traditional rafts, known as tratwy, are constructed from local spruce, lashed together with ropes, and steered by highlanders using long wooden poles. The journey covers 18 kilometres of the gorge, passing beneath limestone cliffs that rise up to 300 metres on both sides of the river. The rafts navigate gentle rapids and sharp bends, with the highlanders providing commentary on the history, geology, and legends of the gorge. The trip takes approximately two and a half hours and costs 50 zloty for adults, with discounts for children. Raft departures run regularly from April through October, with the highest water levels and fastest journeys occurring in May and June during the spring snowmelt. Reservations are recommended during July and August, the busiest months, and can be made online through the Pieniny Rafting Association website. The raft trip ends at the village of Szczawnica, where buses return passengers to their starting point.
Would you ride a traditional wooden raft through the gorge? 🛶
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